The Sloyd Knife and Knife Grips
Choosing and sharpening a Scandinavian-ground sloyd knife, the handful of grips that do nearly all the work - forehand, reinforced, chest lever, thumb push, pull stroke - and the rules about where your blade, legs, and arteries are.
- 4 min
- 5 steps
- 3 questions
- Lesson 64 of 160
In this lesson
- The knife
- The core grips
- Reading the grain
- Safety rules
- What to take from this
Picking up where you left off.
The knife
The sloyd knife (slöjdkniv) is a short, stiff blade, about 6-8 cm (2.5-3 in), on a simple oval handle. Salomon made it the first tool of educational sloyd 1, and Swedish carvers still do almost everything with one: shaping, smoothing, notching, and decoration 2.
What matters:
- Scandinavian grind: one wide, flat bevel on each side running right to the edge, no secondary bevel. Lay the bevel flat on the stone and you’re automatically at the right angle; in the cut, the bevel rides the wood and steers the knife 3.
- Laminated carbon steel: a hard core between softer layers takes a keen edge and sharpens easily. Morakniv’s carving knives (the 106 and 120 patterns) are inexpensive standards.
- Short blade: a long blade can’t be controlled near the tip.
- Comfortable handle: you’ll hold it for hours. Many carvers reshape a stock handle.
Sharpening a Scandi grind: lay the whole bevel flat on a medium stone and rub until a burr forms along the full edge, then the other side; repeat on a fine stone; strop on leather charged with compound. Strop every 20 minutes or so of carving. If you rock the knife and round over the bevel, it stops tracking and starts crushing.
Quick check
Lay the whole bevel flat on the stone and you’re at the right angle; the bevel also guides the knife in the cut.
The core grips
A handful of grips do nearly all the work 3 4:
| Grip | How | Use |
|---|---|---|
| Forehand | knife in a fist, edge away, cut away from the body | heavy removal, roughing |
| Reinforced forehand | as forehand, the other thumb pushes the back of the blade | controlled cuts with more power; long smooth surfaces |
| Chest lever | knife hand at the chest, edge out; the work held in the other hand; pull the hands apart by spreading the shoulder blades | strong short cuts with the blade moving away from you |
| Thumb push | the off-hand thumb pushes the back of the blade while the knife hand guides | fine, precise cuts and detail |
| Pull stroke (paring) | edge toward you, thumb braced on the work below the cut; close the hand like peeling a potato | finishing cuts, especially on spoon necks and handles |
| Knee or elbow brace | forearm or elbow locked against the knee or body | stability; turns small arm movements into controlled cuts |
Playback is optional. If the player is unavailable, open the video at its source.
Two principles behind all of them:
- Brace something. An arm swinging in the air can’t stop. Lock a wrist, elbow, or forearm against the body, knee, or the work so the stroke has a fixed end.
- Skew the blade. Slicing at an angle cuts more easily and leaves a cleaner surface than pushing straight in.
Playback is optional. If the player is unavailable, open the video at its source.
Quick check
Short, powerful, controlled cuts with the blade moving away from you.
Reading the grain
Cut downhill: with the fibers, from high to low. If the knife digs in and the wood tears ahead of the edge, you’re cutting into the grain - turn the work around. Around curves the grain direction changes, so reverse direction at the bottom of every hollow and the top of every hump.
Safety rules
- Know where the blade goes if it slips before every cut.
- Never cut toward the inside of your thigh. The femoral artery runs there; a deep cut is a life-threatening bleed. Brace elbows on your knees and work outside the legs, or wear a leather lap guard.
- Never cut toward the holding hand unless the thumb is braced behind the edge, as in the pull stroke.
- Sharp knives are safer - a dull knife needs force and skids.
- Carve sitting, with good light, and stop when tired.
- Keep a first-aid kit with pressure bandages within reach.
Quick check
Carve with elbows braced on the thighs or knees, blade working outside the legs, or use a lap guard.
What to take from this
The sloyd knife is short, stiff, and Scandi-ground: lay the bevel flat to sharpen and strop often. Forehand, reinforced forehand, chest lever, thumb push, and the pull stroke do nearly all the work; brace an arm and skew the blade. Cut downhill with the grain. Know where every slip would go, and never cut toward your inner thigh or an unbraced hand.
Lesson complete
Nice work.
Sources for this lesson
- 1Otto Salomon. The Teacher's Hand-Book of Slöjd, as Practised and Taught at Nääs. 3rd ed. Silver, Burdett & Co.. 1907. verifiedPublic-domain English translation; aims of educational sloyd, progression from easy to difficult, and the knife as the characteristic sloyd tool.
- 2Jögge Sundqvist. Slöjd in Wood. Lost Art Press. 2018. verifiedPublisher excerpt (PDF) of the English translation of the Swedish classic; butter knife, spoons, bowls, sheath, hooks, and painted decoration in the Västerbotten tradition.
- 3Wille Sundqvist. Swedish Carving Techniques. Taunton Press (reissued by Abrams). 1990. verifiedAxe and knife grips, sharpening, and household woodenware such as butter paddles, spoons, ladles, and dough bowls.
- 4Barn the Spoon. Spoon: A Guide to Spoon Carving and the New Wood Culture. Scribner. 2017. verifiedAxe and knife technique, sharpening, and spoon design from a London spoon carver.