Homestead

Seed Saving

Saving garden seed that comes true: open-pollinated and heirloom versus hybrid (F1), which crops are easy (peas, beans, lettuce, tomatoes), why only varieties of the same species cross (zucchini and pumpkin yes, cucumber and squash no), isolating by time, bags, or distance (10–20 ft for beans, 800 ft to half a mile for squash and corn, up to a mile for beets), dry versus fermented wet seed, and storing seed cool and dry in a jar.

  • 4 min
  • 6 steps
  • 3 questions
  • Lesson 8 of 55

In this lesson

  1. Start with the right plants
  2. What crosses with what
  3. Dry seed
  4. Wet seed
  5. Storing

Saving seed means you never run out of a variety you love, you stop paying for packets, and over the years your seed adapts to your own garden. Most of it is simple. The skill lies in knowing which plants come true and which ones cross.

Start with the right plants

  • Open-pollinated varieties grow seed that comes up like the parent (“true to type”) 1.
  • Heirlooms are open-pollinated varieties passed down for generations for a quality like flavor, color, or hardiness 1.
  • Hybrids, labeled F1, are a deliberate cross of two parents. Their seed usually doesn’t resemble the parent, and some is sterile. For those you buy new seed each year 1.

The easiest crops to start with are peas, beans, lettuce, and tomatoes. They’re annuals that mostly pollinate themselves, need little isolation, and need only a few plants to save good seed 1.

Quick check

You saved seed from a hybrid (F1) tomato. What will next year’s plants be like?

What crosses with what

The common belief is that anything in the same family crosses: cucumbers with squash, or squash with watermelon. It’s false. Different species don’t cross. Varieties of the same species do: a zucchini and a pumpkin, for example, which are both Cucurbita varieties 1. The fruit you eat this year looks normal either way; the cross only shows up next year, when you plant the seed.

That’s why distance matters. Crops differ in how far their pollen travels 1:

Crop Pollinated by Keep varieties apart by
Lettuce, peas, common beans self 10–20 ft
Tomatoes self or insects 10–50 ft
Peppers self or insects 300–1,600 ft
Cucumbers, melons, squash, pumpkins insects 800 ft–½ mile
Broccoli, cabbage, kale (one species) insects 800 ft–½ mile
Corn wind 800 ft–½ mile
Beets, spinach wind 800 ft–1 mile
Left: isolation distances between varieties of the same species on a logarithmic scale: lettuce, peas, and beans 10 to 20 feet; tomatoes 10 to 50 feet; peppers 300 to 1,600 feet; cucumbers, melons, squash, pumpkins, broccoli, cabbage, and kale 800 feet to half a mile; corn 800 feet to half a mile; beets and spinach 800 feet to a mile. Right: choose open-pollinated or heirloom, since hybrids won't come true; only the same species crosses. Dry seed such as beans, peas, onion, carrot, and corn matures on the plant and finishes on a screen. Wet seed such as tomato, cucumber, and melon is fermented in a little water for 2 to 4 days, stirred daily; good seed sinks; pour off the pulp and floaters and dry on a screen. Store cool and dry in labeled paper envelopes in a glass jar.
Start open-pollinated, keep the crossers apart, ferment the wet ones. Credit: StudyCorner diagram after University of Illinois Extension and Seed Savers Exchange · CC BY 4.0 · Source

If you can’t get that far apart, use one of the other two methods 1:

  • Time: stagger plantings so the varieties don’t flower together.
  • Containment: cover flowers or whole plants with paper or mesh bags or row cover, then hand-pollinate: dab pollen from a male flower onto the female flower’s stigma with a small brush, or rub the male flower right onto it.

Carrots, beets, cabbage, kale, and onions are biennials: they flower and set seed in their second year 1, so in Wisconsin they have to be overwintered in the ground under mulch or dug, stored, and replanted in spring.

Quick check

Can your cucumbers cross with your squash?

Dry seed

Beans, peas, onions, carrots, corn, flowers, and herbs: let the seed mature and dry on the plant. Cut seed heads just before they’re fully dry if they shatter easily, then finish drying them in a single layer on a screen in a cool, airy place, or in a paper bag that catches the seed 1.

Wet seed

Tomatoes, cucumbers, and melons hold their seed in wet pulp with a gel coating 1:

  1. Pick a fully ripe fruit (cucumbers for seed go well past eating stage, to yellow and soft).
  2. Scoop the seeds and pulp into a jar with a little water.
  3. Let it ferment 2 to 4 days, stirring daily. The fermentation breaks down the gel coat.
  4. Good seed sinks; pulp and dead seed float. Pour off the top, rinse, and repeat until the seed is clean.
  5. Spread the seed on a screen or paper towel to dry completely.
Webinar: Tomato Seed Saving Tomato seed from start to jar, from Seed Savers Exchange. Credit: Seed Savers Exchange (SSEHeritageFarm) · YouTube standard license · 17:28 · Source

Playback is optional. If the player is unavailable, open the video at its source.

Quick check

Why ferment tomato seeds before drying them?

Storing

Keep seed cool and dry. Paper envelopes inside a glass jar keep out moisture and pests. Label every envelope with the crop, variety, and year 1.

Try it

This fall, save seed from one open-pollinated tomato and one bean variety: ferment the tomato seed and let the bean pods dry on the vine. Next spring, plant some of each and compare them with the parents. If they come true, you’ve started your own seed line.

Lesson complete

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Sources for this lesson
  1. 1
    How to Save Seeds. University of Illinois Extension (Gemini Bhalsod), isolation table from Seed Savers Exchange. 2021. verifiedSave from open-pollinated or heirloom plants; hybrids (F1) don't come true. Easiest: peas, beans, lettuce, tomatoes (self-pollinating, little isolation). Only varieties of the same species cross (summer squash with pumpkins), not different species in a family. Isolate by time, containment (bags, row covers, hand pollination), or distance: lettuce, pea, common bean 10-20 ft; tomato 10-50 ft; pepper 300-1,600 ft; cucumber, melon, squash, pumpkin, broccoli, cabbage, kale, carrot, corn 800 ft-1/2 mile; beet and spinach 800 ft-1 mile. Dry harvest: beans, peas, onion, carrot, corn, herbs, finished on screens. Wet harvest: ferment in a little water 2-4 days, stir daily; viable seeds sink; dry on paper or screen. Store cool and dry in paper envelopes, in a glass jar, labeled with variety and date.