Folk School

Carbon Steel and Hardening

What makes steel hardenable: carbon content and the AISI numbering (1018 versus 1084 versus 1095), mild steel that won't harden, spark testing scrap, Bacon's two laws of hardening, the magnet test, choosing water, brine, or oil, and avoiding cracks and warps.

  • 4 min
  • 6 steps
  • 3 questions
  • Lesson 91 of 204

In this lesson

  1. Carbon is the key
  2. Scrap and spark testing
  3. Two laws of hardening
  4. Hardening step by step
  5. Choosing a quench
  6. What to take from this

Carbon is the key

Iron with a little carbon is steel. With enough carbon, steel can be hardened: heated until its structure changes, then cooled fast enough to lock in a hard structure (martensite) 1.

The common AISI/SAE numbering puts the carbon content in the last two digits (hundredths of a percent):

Steel Carbon Hardens? Use
1018 / A36 mild steel ~0.18% barely hooks, hardware, brackets, most decorative work
1045 ~0.45% moderately hammers, axes
1084 ~0.84% yes, simple to heat treat knives, chisels, punches
1095 ~0.95% yes, needs a fast quench knives, files, springs
5160 ~0.6% + chromium yes, oil quench, very tough springs, axes, big blades
O1, W1 ~0.9-1.0% yes (oil, water) cutting tools, chisels

Mild steel is what most hardware and practice is forged from. For anything that must cut or hold an edge, use a known high-carbon steel.

1084 is a good first tool steel: a eutectoid steel (about 0.84% carbon) with a simple heat treatment 2.

Quick check

What do the last two digits of AISI 1084 mean?

Scrap and spark testing

Unknown scrap (“junkyard steel”) varies: leaf and coil springs are often 5160 or similar; old files are high carbon (but may be case-hardened); rebar is unpredictable. A spark test on a grinder helps sort: mild steel throws long, straight, few-branched sparks; high-carbon steel throws bushy sparks that burst into many forks. Test-harden a scrap sample before committing a project.

Two laws of hardening

Bacon gave two general laws of hardening 3:

  1. The more carbon a steel contains, the lower the heat at which it may be properly hardened.
  2. The faster steel is cooled from the hardening heat, the harder it becomes.

Quick check

State one of Bacon’s two laws of hardening.

Hardening step by step

A temperature-time chart of heat treating 1084 - three normalizing cycles at 1,650, 1,500, and 1,350 F with air cooling, hardening just above the nonmagnetic line near 1,475 F followed by a quench, and two tempering cycles at about 400 F.
The heat-treatment sequence for a simple carbon steel. This lesson covers hardening; the next, tempering and the rest. Credit: StudyCorner diagram after Blacksmiths Depot 1084 data and Bacon (1908) · CC BY 4.0 · Source
  1. Normalize first (next lesson) to refine grain after forging.
  2. Heat evenly to just past nonmagnetic. For 1084 the supplier gives 1,450-1,480°F with a 5-15 minute soak in a controlled furnace 2; in a forge, bring it slowly and evenly past the point where a magnet no longer sticks (about 1,414°F) and a little beyond. Don’t overheat: it coarsens the grain, causes cracks and warps, and makes the steel brittle.
  3. Quench immediately, moving the piece up and down (not side to side) in the quenchant, edge first.
  4. Check with a file: a properly hardened edge skates over a file without biting. As quenched, 1084 reaches about 64-65 HRC 2.
  5. Temper right away - quenched steel is brittle and can crack just sitting on the bench 1.

Quick check

How do you know 1084 is hot enough to harden, without a thermometer?

Choosing a quench

Quenchant Speed Notes
Water / brine fastest for water-hardening steels (W1); high risk of cracking and warping in others
Fast quench oil (Parks 50 type) fast the supplier’s choice for 1084 2
Warm canola or mineral oil (about 120-130°F) moderate common hobby choice for 1084, 5160, O1
Air slowest only for air-hardening steels (A2)

Use enough oil (a gallon or more for a knife), in a metal container with a lid to smother flare-ups. Never quench oil-hardening steel in water.

Is OIL really the best Quench for Tool Steel? Choosing a quenchant. Credit: Black Bear Forge · YouTube standard license · 1:55 · Source

Playback is optional. If the player is unavailable, open the video at its source.

What to take from this

Carbon makes steel hardenable; the AISI 10xx number’s last two digits give the carbon. Mild steel (1018, A36) barely hardens; 1084 and 1095 do. Bacon’s laws: more carbon means a lower hardening heat, and faster cooling means harder steel. Heat 1084 evenly just past nonmagnetic (1,450-1,480°F), quench in fast oil with an up-and-down motion, file-test, and temper immediately.

Lesson complete

Nice work.

1day streak
0/1today's goal
–correct

Up next · 4 min

Tempering, Annealing, and Normalizing

Next lesson
Sources for this lesson
  1. 1
    Tempering (metallurgy). Wikipedia. 2026. verifiedQuenched steel is at its hardest and most brittle; tempering trades some hardness for toughness. Temper color table from faint yellow (about 349 F) through straw, brown, purple, and blues.
  2. 2
    1084 Knife-Making Blade Steel. Blacksmiths Depot. verifiedSupplier heat-treat guidance for eutectoid 1084 - normalizing cycles stepping down from about 1,650 F, hardening at 1,450-1,480 F with a 5-15 minute soak, a fast oil quench (Parks 50), about 64-65 HRC as quenched, and tempering from 300 F (about 65 HRC) to 650 F (about 50 HRC).
  3. 3
    John Lord Bacon. Forge-Practice: Elementary. John Wiley & Sons. 1908. verifiedPublic-domain trade-school text from the Lewis Institute; fire building with coking coal, welding heat and fluxes (sand, borax, sal ammoniac), upsetting, drawing out, bending, punching, and tool-steel hardening and tempering colors (430 F pale yellow to 570 F blue, temper gone near 650 F).